WIP - Time Attack Style Super Cappuccino, my first documented project

I've got the personal interested into this puny 660 turbocharged FR mean machine, therefore seeing that no way to materialise the real machine, I've bought the scaled version instead.This kit I've obtained from Hobby Search - MOLA SPORT Cappuccino.


5 minutes right after receiving the parcel from the courier guy. Note the puny size as compared to the Z-tune R34.


Stock Standard Cappuccino with the OEM 14" sport wheel.


With Halfway aftermarket bumper that came with the kit fitted on, a slightly lowered stance spotted. Somehow Aoshima's kit doesnt really fit perfectly hence it required some mod work and putty to seal the seam line to make it look real.


The kit came with standard seating, but I'm trying to make this Cappuccino ala Time Attack style, so the Calsonic Z's bucket seat gotta make way for this Cappuccino. And what is a TA version of Cappuccino without the GT-wing? GT-wing came from the ING'S aftermarket unit (from Tamiya)


After some putty and sanding session to make up to the kit error (I'm using Tamiya Basic Putty), it came out like that above. Noticed the better curve of the bumper as compared to the one before putty applied.


utty being applied and sand off again many times to achieve the desired shape and curve. Repeated so much of the process, I've fall sick for 4 days off from work due to inhaling too much of the putty dust.


So far I think I've sand enough on the bumper until primer being apply to spot for fine mistake during sanding. Decided to scratchbuild the side skirt for this kit (ya this unit doesnt came with one and the ride height look spastic initially) out of Tamiya's clear styrene sheet. 0.4mm sheet was used (in realistic size, it's 0.96cm thickness) to make it 'feel' and look bulged out further from the door.


Side skirt would not be side skirt if its in 2D look when this is a 3D model. So detailed up the undercarriage side as well and with a little putty work again.


The end result before ready for first touch of primer. With the custom side skirt, the height lowered till 2mm ground clearance (a moderate 4.8cm off ground in real life)


Another angle shot. Actually not done with the side skirt yet. Still need to use plastic scribber to draw a horizontal groove over it. Initially was thinking to widen the front and back wheel arch ala Proton Satria GTI style, but the kit came with another 14" TE37 so it was kinda hopeless. Anyone got spare 15" or 16" wheels probably taken out from MRS, or some similar small type sports car to spare me a set? Else I would not do the wide arch..


wheel changed to 14" TE37 and just right after first coat of primer. spotted pretty much mistakes and unevenness. putty and sanding time again.. the basic single component putty warped the custom sideskirt, so gotta fill it up again.. :x

picture time!! these pics are taken after fixing the warped plastic card of the sideskirt. puttied, sanded and primed again.

spent some time doing plastic fabrication work. here are the result..


the rollcage. made out of 5 parts of rods joined together and putty applied to fill the joint gap. forgoted to snap the result after sanded.


custom 2" (from 2mm rod) exhaust with a center backbox and 2 outlet - replacing the stock 1" (1mm) tiny kicikmiao exhaust - from a 5 parts "mandrel" bent plastic.. haha


both outlet, twin exhaust outlet again. the hollow tip has yet to be fabricated yet as the cement isnt dry and not puttied yet.

Coated 4 layer of Tamiya Pearl Light Blue within a span of a week, photo taken at unpolish state.

some updates on the exhaust system and rollcage.


the exhaust kit after primed. awaiting for the black acrylic paint for a black coat top it over with a chrome and get it polish to shine.


of how it look like when fitted on to the cappuccino. better than Wai Heng exhaust specialist outlet that you see or went anywhere around Klang Valley!


somehow or rather, IMHO, race themed car should not be in metallic finish paintjob. it looks weird..


this shot with the roof down, revealing the half rollcage. it'll be a single seater & the passenger room will be use to keep nitrous canister, battery reallocation, or maybe ECU or fire extinguisher.

next task, to scratch build a bigger front mounted intercooler using polyester putty for this cappuccino. all comments and feedback are welcomed (to keep me improving!) creative ideas are welcome too!

and since we're at it, i'm lost at the next step of painting job. the situation is like this, i've painted the body with layers of the Tamiya TS paint. Should I:

1) polish it with compound first, then only airbrush the window trim and compound it again, then spray the clear coat and compound it again and lastly the wax on? OR

2) leave as it is, airbrush the window trim together then only polish? only spray clear coat after that? OR

3) how? i mean the step by step process..

p/s: anyone got some small size 15 or 16 wheels to trade? (in scale of course!) male fitment preferred. put me an offer if you have. would appreciate that for my similar kit but that one will not be a Time Attack style but would be a drift/track style so i need a bigger and wider wheel to go with a wide bodykit

Great progress there equinox and welcome to the forum. Do not forget to introduce yourself ok?

The Cappucino is one car that is hard to make it look good (for me lah) and that's why I never build one (plus it's too small ) but you really accomplish in making this looks good. The piping looks excellent (I made mine usually straight pipes... ) The TE37 looks right at home on the Cappucino.

As for the window trim, this is how I do it:

1) Clear coat the body and polish it.
2) After I got the shine needed, only then I mask the body and give it a window trim.

That's what I usually do lah.

Great WIP, equinox. And welcome to the forums.

As for putty dust, try wet sanding. It helps to keep the dust from flying every which way. Clean up is easy under running water with a toothbrush and a bit of liquid soap.

Nicely done and keep it up.

Interesting subject for modification, equinox!

I really like the exhaust work. It looks more like Jaafar (JFA) work rather than Wai Heng or Wei Yip !

For the intercooler, I believe it is easier to use 1mm or 2mm styrene sheet rather than using a polyester putty.

Hello and Welcome to SMM forum equinox...

A very good idea and effort of you on this Suzuki Cappuccino (emmm...remind me of forget to take a cup of coffee this morning)

This is what i normally do for my kits as i'm using can spray too...remember to 'warm' (place in hot water) it up first b4 spraying. The 1st coat should be mist/light then after an hour or two apply another coat with a distance around 1' between the can spray and kit. When the kit is completely dry, then spray another layer but this time is 'wet' spray at 6" distance (don't spray too near as there will be build up paints). Satisfy with your paint job, wait till it dry for a day or 2 then only apply clear coat. After the clear coat is completely dry, then do like druid say...mask the body and do the trimming.

The 14" Volks TE37 really suits this 'coffee' car cos in 1:1 scale this car is compact size so u imagine putting a 15" or bigger on it is kindda 'off'...just my cents la

Anxiously waiting to see ur finish!

hey guys thanks for the feedbacks and answers. i think the TE37 suit in a way, but i was thinking of this (pic below)



this is a 15" Hayashi wheel, that CROSS/K-TAKEOFF are using this as the trademark wheel for all their Cappuccino.

and I've found the wheel on sale here>> Hobby Search's 15" Hayashi Wheel

since i got a spare kit of this Cappuccino (greedy and bought 2 kit of the same) and this one will be a Time Attack Style (semi track), the next kit I gonna bring it up even better, low down suspension with the Hayashi wheel, wide body (like in the pic above), full 6pt rollcage and many more features that i've thought to put on which never seems to appropriate to be on this street tuned cappuccino

druid_99,
cant find a better thread to introduce myself here so i'll do it here. used to like this hobby since way back when i was a kid but back then financially not allowing me to start this hobby. eventually when started working couple years back, i got into modifications of real car as hobby (yeah modifications) and after many years of modding and participation in motorsports, decided to give it a stop - motorsports require lotsa moola if there is no sponsors. also, time to move on with life with some balance of money. but my interest in cars still strong, infact my gf now are not phobia of speed, i would be still in the game of the real thing. hence my diversion into the scale cars. and i like to build, custom it so it would stand out from the rest (definitely not OOB guy i am). couple of years back i did try to start this hobby but gave up coz i believe most young ppl in the early 20s are impatient; been there and had it. so those kit back then are gone. so here i'm, starting it again this time around with full equipment.

there is a reason of why i'm building this Cappuccino although I must say those well known sports car are very much favored. reason is that i've failed to make this real car as my competition track car last year (i was one of the participating driver in Malaysian Super Series 2006 under the sports compact series piloting an alternative choice of a FF Daihatsu Mira turbo as seen under the signature pic) hence to keep up to that dream of owning one, i've made the small scale of it. this little project is kinda meaningful to me and my teammates so i'll put every effort to make it look great. and it'll be the exact replica of what i wanted the track car would be.

oh too much craps from me. by the way, my name is Shawn and i'm located in Sri Petaling. anyone nearby?

PoohBear,
what's the diff of wet & dry sanding? forgive me i'm still a noob in this..

xamel1975,
JFA is a lil cut throat but still i like their work. infact all my piping for my real car are done there.. haha!

but then for the intercooler, the base square will be construct by styrene sheet but i need the roll up a dough of that polyester putty to form a flat pan-cake shape whereby i can 'print' some grooves to it and leave it to dry and cure, only to cut into the shape i want - to replicate the bar & plate style intercooler. no illustration at the moment but i'll document it along when i'm doing it so u'll know what i mean.

PcEvo,
my reply above meant for u.

There is actually an introduction thread but I think you've found it right? That was a lengthy intro you got there and it's good to see one more car modelers in this forum (as you can notice, we are a very rare breed of modeler... ).

I started as an OOB guy but then after 4 to 5 OOB cars, it just does not satisfy me that I start modding it from switching rims till full bodykit builds.

As for your wetsanding vs. drysanding, wetsanding will benefit in reducing the friction of the sandpaper with your paintwork thus will ensure there will not be any deep scratches on the paintjob. Wetsanding will also remove the paint/plastic/putty dust in the form that the water will trap it.

Hope this roughly explains it.

Haha, I know the reputation of JFA workshop. Maybe I should go there for my exhaust works. Last time, I went to Wei Yip's.

As for the intercooler, I think I know what you mean. Yes, that method will work and less hassle. Do update on the works!

BTW, that's a lovely pic of the Cappuccino.

Shawn, no worries with the q's. This is a learning hobby and my friend's uncle's cousin's sister's brother's father's mother's daughter always said, "If you ain't askin', you ain't learnin'.." or something like that... and I think I may have missed a niece or two.

As for wet sanding, Druid_99 had already answered your question. Not sure if I can add any more to it but I'll give it a go.

You do the same thing during wet sanding as you do in dry sanding. The only added element during sanding is, you guessed it- water. Druid is right that the water 'traps' the fine particles and prevents the dust from flying into the air and into your lungs or into every corner of your work room. Constantly keep your sanding area wet (hence, wet-sanding) with fresh water so that you can spot your sanding progress. The dust particles+water mix will form a sort of sludge while you are sanding. This sludge gets into all the nooks and cranny's but is easily cleaned up with soapy water and a toothbrush.

Also, by wet sanding, the s/paper clogs a lot less and can last relatively longer in a sanding session. That's how it is for me, anyway. Your mileage may vary. I've read somewhere that adding some liquid soap to the water turns it into a lubricant and lessens the clogging even more for a smoother sanding process. I have not tried this but you might want to give it a go.

That's about the long winded version of it. Anybody wants to chime in can have a go at it.

HTH