helping my friend build f.enzo, poor skill
| · SMM Forum Rules and Regulations · Portal |
 Help
 Search
 Members
 Calendar
|
| Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register ) | Resend Validation Email |
 | Welcome to ScaleModelsMalaysia. We hope you enjoy your visit. You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. ATTENTION ********** Beginning September 2012, there are new rules being implemented on new registration accounts to curb the present problems we have with spammers. Please sign-in or register before accessing the complete forum. For newly registered members, you are require to introduce yourself in the 'Introduction' thread. Once that is done, you will be promoted to 'Newbie' status and after an additional 4# posts, you will have full access to SMM forum. Please take note of this new ruling. New ruling is also subjected to change over time. Join our community! If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: |
| Pages: (2) 1 [2] ( Go to first unread post ) |    |
helping my friend build f.enzo, poor skill| mrsmith |
Posted: Jul 18 2007, 11:20 PM
|
 Smitech production  Group: SFTPMS Posts: 131 Member No.: 158 Joined: 25-June 06  |
tats a chocolate wrap, i used to attached.....ah...what we call that....
just between the interior n the engine bay....thats a small window there... (last photo...) |
   
|
| druid_99 |
Posted: Jul 19 2007, 09:14 AM
|
||
 Snr Member Group: SFTPMS Posts: 4,337 Member No.: 49 Joined: 11-January 06 |
It's called a firewall... That's a good way to replicate the insulation (using Fererro Rocher I see...  ). The best will be the foil form the cigarette pack that has the texture much like the insulation for the Enzo's firewall but your method looks like it works too. Got to get myself some chocolate... |
||
|
|
| dukehunt |
Posted: Jul 19 2007, 09:22 AM
|
 Newbie  Group: Members Posts: 48 Member No.: 335 Joined: 3-July 07 |
was thinking the same thing yesterday regarding the ferero rocher wrapping but forgot to ask...
hhhm...the wrapping and the car got something in common and almost in common.. got conspiracy ar? hehehe...joking only... |
|
|
| Captain Kirk |
Posted: Jul 19 2007, 03:21 PM
|
 Advanced Member Group: SFTPMS Posts: 734 Member No.: 115 Joined: 17-May 06 |
Mr Smith,
the ratio for gloss clearcoat airbrushing is normally about 70% Gunze Thinner : 30% Gunze Super Clear Gloss. especially with smaller scales. Keep the airbrush close and even to the model (too far the paint will dry before reaching the surface and will give orange peel effect or rough surface). Recommend you practice a bit on some scrap kit curved surfaces first to get used to the distance & spray ratio with your airbrush/pressure/paint mix etc..  This is only a suggestion, as it worked for me, everyone has their own unique style of painting models as well.... cheers, Captain Kirk  |
|
|
| mrsmith |
Posted: Jul 19 2007, 06:13 PM
|
|
Smitech production Group: SFTPMS Posts: 131 Member No.: 158 Joined: 25-June 06 |
thanks!!!
i'll try it... maybe my ratio of mixing them wrong... thanks for ur recipe... |
|
|
| Kenneth |
Posted: Jul 21 2007, 10:43 PM
|
 K Auto Factory Group: SFTPMS Posts: 447 Member No.: 67 Joined: 11-February 06 |
Another tip for gloss coat is to use 60% Leveling thinner 30% Gunze Sper clear and then 10% retarder. This is the formular I use. About the the distance from the airbrush to the body. I generally agree with Capt. Kirk. But it also depends on the pressure and individual style of airbrushing movements.
 |
|
| mrsmith |
Posted: Aug 1 2007, 01:08 AM
|
|
Smitech production Group: SFTPMS Posts: 131 Member No.: 158 Joined: 25-June 06 |
   |
|
|
| Kenneth |
Posted: Aug 1 2007, 04:09 PM
|
|
K Auto Factory Group: SFTPMS Posts: 447 Member No.: 67 Joined: 11-February 06 |
Awesome polishing work there. I suggest that you let it cure for a while brfore you musk for spraying semi-gloss black on the insides. let it sit for at least a week. Trust me on this advise.
|
|
|
| druid_99 |
Posted: Aug 1 2007, 04:47 PM
|
||
|
Snr Member Group: SFTPMS Posts: 4,337 Member No.: 49 Joined: 11-January 06 |
I'm with Kenneth. Just let the parts cure for a week before painting the insides. Excellent shine you've achieved there. |
||
|
|
| mrsmith |
Posted: Aug 1 2007, 10:22 PM
|
|
Smitech production Group: SFTPMS Posts: 131 Member No.: 158 Joined: 25-June 06 |
ok, i take this advice...
but, what is the reason? |
|
|
| Kenneth |
Posted: Aug 2 2007, 11:38 AM
|
||
|
K Auto Factory Group: SFTPMS Posts: 447 Member No.: 67 Joined: 11-February 06 |
I myself had experience it as well as Druid. Infact it is better for you to let the clear coat cure. It means totally harden. That is why I often put my models under the sun after the last clear coat been sprayed. Normally a week before I even consider wet sanding and compound polishing. If this is not done. Once the model is completed you will see fine orange peel appearing on the body. I think Druid knows what I am talking about. |
||
|
|
| mrsmith |
Posted: Aug 2 2007, 12:25 PM
|
|
Smitech production Group: SFTPMS Posts: 131 Member No.: 158 Joined: 25-June 06 |
i see...
thanks!! sifu!! |
|
|
| druid_99 |
Posted: Aug 2 2007, 12:45 PM
|
||||
|
Snr Member Group: SFTPMS Posts: 4,337 Member No.: 49 Joined: 11-January 06 |
Hahahahaha.... talk about lesson learned the hard way... Plus if you did not let the paint to cure/harden properly, what will happen is, when you apply the masking tape on to the body while painting the insides, there will be masking tape impression on that beautiful polished finish on your car and will totally ruin your day... again, this is a lesson I learned the hard way... |
||||
|
|
 Pages: (2) 1 [2] |
|
