1/35 Armour

[ari]

All my armour build will be posted in this thread....keep a sharp an eye on this as alot of new methods will be included.

i will start off with something easy ...an OOB build with no modification, slowly moving on something harder and finally a full cut and slash build.

heres the list of build im planning, if time permitting finish them off this year.

Morser Karl
Panzer 1 ausf F
Stug IIIG
Panther Ausf A ( zimmerit)
Panther Ausf D
Panther Ausf G
King Tiger (zimmerit)
sFH 150cm Field Howitzer

Vickers
Chanlleger II

M60 Blazer
Nagmashot
Merkava

[ari]

ok 1st to go is this italian M13/40.
this is an easy to build kit if you wanna do it OOB ...but theres alot one has to work on if one desires a more accurate representataion of the M13/40.
but im doing this OOb while saving the other for more added details.


no much to say about this 28 year old kit..its simple and good enough to do it OOB, the fittings is good and this is one of the better armour kits from Italleri, well you could expect this from an Italian company doing an Italian tank.





the downside is this sink hole...the only one in this kit




first thing to do is to give the smooth surface on the lower hull the steel look...using hardware shop thinner and a hard brush, i add a little black so i could see the surface better











i use this thread to join up the tracks




a plastic rod is inserted so i could tight up the tracks...which is very stiff, and it wont look nice if you dont work on it...stiff tracks always tends to bend upwards




once the tracks were tied in , i cut the plastic rod to a minimal...they wont be visiable one the tracks were painted and add in some pastel

[ari]

finish





coat of steel is applied. Black 90%+Bronze 10%





a coat of hairspray and let dry for 3 hours





the tracks are sprayed with modelmaster rust




the camo..i used Panzer grey 80%+Grass green 15% and dark blue 5%




once dried i use the same mixture mix 50% light gray and spray on the central panels as shading




afterr masking ... alight over spray of Desert yellow + Olive green + light grey




shading ...part 1...the same desert yellow mixture, sprayed in the middle , panel by panel




shading...part 2...again with the same mixture but this time mix with 50% light gray, and again sprayed in the middle and slowly move up around the edges




shading ..part 3....add another 50% light gray and a touch of desert yellow to the pervious toned down mixture






masking off





a high light of dark gray + green and 90% thinner is sprayed around the hard edges and around the nuts and bolts






after high lighting a very very light overspray of light grey to tone down and blend the high lights






Filtering...i use Raw amber mix with 95% thinner to filter down the shading.
works stops here as one need to to wait atleast 12 hours for the filter paints to dry

[ari]

Filtering Round 2...this time i use Burn sienna + Black + raw seinna and 90% thinner as filter medium. while the filter is still wet, i add in pin point wash around the edges , nuts and bolts and also create rain streaks, using a mixture of burn sienna + black and 70% thinner
. must allow atleast 6 hours drying time, before next step



note the tone changes after 2 rounds of filtering. next would be chipping, rust aplication dry brushing and toning

[RMCBoy]

Wah! You weren.t kidding when you said its a fast build...smokin!

You always have ways to make realistic finishes bro..salut!

[moJimbo]

great job for a quickie build... i like how the shading and camo turns out so far.

[ari]

thanks braders...fast coz this is an easy build with little parts and the fitting is good, just over 3 hours , but i think bcos its the holiday season, no work and the wife is away visiting her parents ..hahaha

well if you choose to detail this kit, indeed it will take alot more time, theres alot of area that doesnt really look accurate especially the head lights , tools and the engine deck...i choose not to use to the head lights as its so awfull and it takes time to recast one.

[ari]

the filtering after drying





paint chipping is done with minimal effect around the hatches and engine area...









TONING

this method is to bring out the lost shades during filtering and bring the colour back to life, it also serve to smooth out the filtering effect and wipe out the rough after effect of filtering
this is basic colours i use for toning ...black, white , green and brown


the mixture of 4 of these colour will produce this shade..sort like panzer grey but to the greener side. the mixture is diluted with 90% thinner...i use tamiya enemel thinner for the toning..as i have more control with the flow compared to minyak tanah.
ONE WORD OF CAUTION....do not use this method if you are using the same enemel as base coat. Safe with Gunze or Tamiya water base paints




with a soft medium wide brush apply the toning mixture.
the left side of the turret is been tone down wile the right not yet..note the effect of the toning...and also note the streaks left behind by filtering on the right.



see how the toning erase most of the streaks and blend everything together



done and wait for it to dry ...another waiting game




next ..take some of toning mixture and mix with brown and use it to tone down the lower hull and the wheels...in this way you will have two tones on your tanks just to break up the dull single tone.



after toning with the brown mixture...so just wait a few hours to dry...enemel dries faster than oil paints

[Bomber Vince]

cool man, thanks for the step by step pic.

[RMCBoy]

This thread's gonna be like a Bible of sorts for us armor modelers..hehe

Thanx Ari!

[ari]

Toning after drying. note the several tones in these tank...the front section is different from the turret and the turret is different from the engine decks..but then these tones are so close to each other the difference is quite minimal





now for dry brushing. i used oilpaints for dry brushing for one simple reason , oilpaints do not leave behind streaks like enemel paints do.
the colour i use are white, sap green , yellow and raw sienna...mix them together will produce sort of a beige colour




with very light stroke ...the dry brushing goes in ...DO NOT over dry brush as we do not want a tank that looks like it came out from the powder shop. many times we had seen modeller dry brush on the heavy side to produce the high lights ...well i find this is not correct , its better to under dry brush than to over as we still have more work to do with the pastels





the very light effect of dry brushing...and at the same time i clean up the Kangaroo decal, as this is a new paint on a captured tank




a vey diluted white is used to paint the decals to give it an uneven paint finish...just as well as we dont really expect the kangaroos are painted with a professional finish...well not in Trobuk 1941

[ari]

RUST

The hot climate of Africa is steels worst enemy as heat produce Oxide , and thats means plenty of rust.
here is the rust miture i used. one is in black brown, then other is reddish brown , finally one is flat brown.


rust is applied on selected spots, and on the nuts and bolts, but this is done at random as not all the nuts and bolts are rusted






rust is applied in thick soup on the exhaust



while its still wet, i apply water base chromite green



then i applied a touch of thinner on top of all this...and watch the green water base paint breaks up and form into speckls..which is the 1st stage of rust...oxide green

[dremel]

as always ari....nice 1...

[enghui]

Sttttuuuunnniing Job! Thanks for the step by step pics.

[ari]

the tank is given a coat of Future 30%+70% water...this will protect the coating and gives a muted gloss look. Plastic armour at 1/35 would look DEAD in matt paints, whatever highlights or dry brushing or whatever will disappear once matt paints are fully dried.
as the way i see it...forget about the True facts about how the colours would look like in real life, but produce something artistic and pleasing to the eyes. besides the muted gloss will act as contrast once the dusting is complete





Home turn.....Pastels
these are the colours im using for this tanks. a word on pastels ...always get the soft type without oils...and avoid getting those cheap made in china type, they are near hopless as most of them comes in oil


the wheels and suspension after dusting




a mixture of oil paints Black + burn seinna + varish is use to touch up the edges and bolts ....this will serve as contrast and also as the grease which will always be present when theres suspensions


the exhaust receive the same treatment



note the colour of the fender around the exhaust.....this is due to the heat from the exhaust. the same reason why exhaust are usually rusted, the heat simply melts the paints away...leaving it to the mercy of rain and sun
This effect is done with light spraying , toning and pastels






FINISH