Peeling Paints

Whats is the best way to make those paint peeling effect on WW2 Japanese warplanes, i believe without this it would make the model less impressive as the majority of the real thing comes with awfull paint job with peeling off on almost every plane .

so bros lets share the method you know best...especially so now we are about to start the WW2 jap warplane group build.

i have never stop finding the best way to do those peelings..i guess thats the reason why i held back from building any jap planes until i find the proper solution for it.
as far as i know those peelings were not just scratches but the whole darn paint coming off since they didnt prime the metal before painting. at 15 thousand feet air pressure is gonna do alot of damage to those paints....cold in the air...then hot while parking on the ground....plus the proper blades is gona throw alot stuff back onto the airplanes.

this how i did...a new solution call Masker...from Mustika Ratu...yup the stuff from the wife's make up table..


there two type of paint peeling..one is this the flower type...this done by applying mustika ratu using a blunt brush...this masker is much softer than liquid masking thus easier to apply and you can make them look real fine and small
this here is one of my rusak oscar...so im using them as test bed




here is another type of peeling....i dont know what you call this...and i like this type very much. this done by rubbing off the paints will alcohol






the two rusak oscar im using as testers

cool ... will try this out.
i only know the hair gel method ...

ari> for a glance I thought I was looking at a rusty boomerang here.
Interesting idea here.
My best technique is still rubbing the "salt method" I learnt Finescale Modeler Mag.

Thanks for sharing.

the problem with salt is we have no control over the final shape of the peeling...sort like you take what is given. apart from that you kennot touch it..or you might rub it off. its messy and not much differrent from the hairspray method...large clean peeling.

Pak ari... do u have a pict of this mustika ratu masker? Need to find it, & try it out myself.

Here is the "salt" peeling method I tried on my craved batu tokong.
Guess on model, it has to be much smaller scale to be more realistic.

Craze crackle occurs with aged painting or painting done in a hurry without allowing coatings to thoroughly dried. This random crazing could add reality to weather worn old planes.

Apply Decoart one step crackle finish over painted surface. Dries clear in 2 hours with fine cracks. Stain over cracks and wipe off stains.

For more pronounce cracks on larger projects use 2 step crackle finish also from Decoart USA.

hi .. can u PM me the price of this wonderful product ?

I can't view the pics posted so have no idea how your project turned out.

I have used the salt method on aircraft and find it to be practical. Naturally, there is little 'control' over the kind of peel you're going to achieve but isn't that the general idea in the first place ie. peeling should be random? Anyway it all boils down to experience in the end and you should be able to exercise some measure of control after a couple of tries.

A more tedious way with realistic results:
Cover the aircraft with the natural color of its metal. You may start shading at his stage. Let dry and a/b Future throughout. Caution: This polish is runny so many light coats advisible otherwise it puddles. Commercially available gloss can also be used.

Allow the Future coat to dry for another 48 hours (recommended). The longer the better. A/b the model as you normally would (incl pre and post shading). Allow to dry some more. Now the fun part. Chip away using toothpicks (pointed tip or fashioned into a wedge for wider chipping) or whatever at your disposal as long as the outer layer of paint comes off but not the layer protected by Future. What you get is actual chipping like the real thing. For scuffing you can use fine sandpaper, again on the outer layer only. I'm not sure how to incorporate decals with the chipping so I just don't do any 'damage' near them but I suppose you can prick the decals too if required. Finish up with a final coat of flat or semi gloss (if prefered for aircraft). I've tried it on armor. Should work for planes.

Cheers
Patrick

Dang! I was just able to view your pics and I must add that your results are already very good.

using future coat and tooth pick method is the method im currently using....but...the problem is...u need to have lots of patience.
and of course the danger of losing your patience and start digging and scrapping at the surface harder and harder until that very moment you hit the weak spot...jackpot !
besides, you can forget about this method if you are using lacquer paints...you need a chisel and hammer to scrap such paints off, but then again such method works very well if you are using tamiya acrylic paints. for IJN warplanes it has to be XF-70, imo this is the most accurate shade and if you tone it down with light blue plus white it does show the wore out bluish hue .

as for IJA warplanes then its gunze...130 for kawasaki airplanes sort like medium green more to the grass side, while for nakajima then its freehand...most nakajima warplanes are field painted...you could use Olive drab or even khaki drab..capture enemy paints.