Stug Iv .
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Stug Iv .| ari |
Posted: Dec 27 2011, 02:13 PM
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Advanced Member  Group: Members Posts: 947 Member No.: 354 Joined: 5-August 07  |
Testing testing ...to see if this is correct.
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| Izzy |
Posted: Dec 27 2011, 07:23 PM
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 Version Freak Group: Members Posts: 402 Member No.: 1,270 Joined: 13-April 11 |
this is correct
 picture bro ... |
 
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| ari |
Posted: Dec 28 2011, 08:04 AM
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 947 Member No.: 354 Joined: 5-August 07 |
the surface had been worked on with motor tools, and weld seams added
   the rain guide replaced by something thinner  the front fender is cartoon bro...so i just cut it off and thin the bottom  the add on cement amour from the kit is A1 kari ayam....so i redid it and add in planking seams, as wood are using to hold the cement while they dry   weld seams added  to be continue |
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| Izzy |
Posted: Dec 28 2011, 08:40 AM
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Version Freak Group: Members Posts: 402 Member No.: 1,270 Joined: 13-April 11 |
Bro Ari ...
the weld seam are added using a drill is it? If i dont have a motor tool .. how can we do it? I was thinking to put cement on the edge and do it by hand .. Or I just buy a hand drill or something .... |
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| ari |
Posted: Jan 2 2012, 12:54 PM
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 947 Member No.: 354 Joined: 5-August 07 |
.weld seams is made with a thin sharp knife...use super thin tamiya glue to soften the spot . the best way to do armour surafce is a motor tool, since you can use different set of bits to create different type of surface, if you use cement then you get the same type of surface over and over again, looking close up armour surface id not just rough, but there would be plenty of sink holes, uneven surface, and moulding prints. a motor tool is not expensive, use the small type you find at the handyman store or hardware shop, i guess they are about rm100 or less. modelling motor tool does not have the required power to run the bits at high speed, but hardware shop motor tool does, and you can control the ptich to slow or fast. more updates. new side armour made from PC , the armour from the kit is a joke, darn bloody thick and academy actually gave the side armour from a Pz vi H kit, thinking they would be okay for a stugiv, infact the side armour for the stug iv is a bit different,  the front section of the left side armour is cut off to provide better view for the driver, with the armour on, one cant see too much of the road wheels, thats why i didnt worked on them. if you closer at the side armour, they have been worked on, they are thin plates but still they are unpolised metal plates, so they do have a pretty rough surface  |
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| ari |
Posted: Jan 3 2012, 11:58 AM
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 947 Member No.: 354 Joined: 5-August 07 |
Painting..
Late war camo   the camo is factory finished....late war straight band  outlines been done with my Olympos air brush.....i was surprise how smooth and trouble free they are and i was wondering why on earth did they stop producing anymore of it. the cement blocks are field added...so i guess the crew would not have bothered to repaint the yellow band...or maybe to break up the patent  try figuring this out...modern art camo  |
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| ari |
Posted: Mar 8 2012, 12:59 AM
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 947 Member No.: 354 Joined: 5-August 07 |
some very slow progress...been spending too much time on aircraft lately, hardly touch any armour.
some shading and touch up....still abit more to go , i try to finish this off before the month ends.  |
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| xamel1975 |
Posted: Mar 8 2012, 10:58 AM
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 Come to the Darkside; we have cookies!  Group: SFTPMS Posts: 2,684 Member No.: 40 Joined: 19-December 05 |
... never cease to amaze me, ari
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| ari |
Posted: Mar 10 2012, 02:03 PM
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 947 Member No.: 354 Joined: 5-August 07 |
Be amazed bro ...when i ever finish anything i started....hahaha some updates...i dont really wanna put too much dirt on this one   |
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| ari |
Posted: Mar 14 2012, 03:38 PM
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 947 Member No.: 354 Joined: 5-August 07 |
Finally complete.....
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