Tamiya Ferrari 360 Modena, Ala-Challange Stadale for HBGB

looks okay to me, unless u wanna follow 100%, then it's really not thick enough at the bottom

bro, looks good so far! i've got u some references..from ebay motors, the place where i often look for references..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ferrari-360...=item2a1ebcfdf2

Kah Hoe, thanks for the reference..

You know.. too much reference is hazardous for me

Anyway.. as I got too tired with eyeballing and getting the curve right on the front bumper.. I eventually dwelved into the dark side..



It keep calling me to potong.. potong..
In the end.. my resistance was futile






Guess next will be the mounting work to get the hood moveable..
Hate those ppl in AF who made them look easy to make..

Hahaha..so are u gonna open the doors as well? Oh man, this is gonna be a super detail build..hats off..haha..

Seriously i got poisoned by bro autodecepticons italia, we even came out with the crazy idea of making a scuderia 16M with openable doors..it's gonna be crazy..right? Hahaha..

uh uh... duh.. dun't say it..

dangerous..

if i were you, i just glue it back with plaplate at the bottom, might look silly but u get a natural shadow of the hood's panel line

if u continue to juk chung...then u risk few things

1) scratch built the luggage compartment
2) design a hinge that can be open and close
3) but the hinge must not compromise the bonnet's fitting, means can close perfectly

and the end of the day, would u display it with the bonnet open where it block 40% of the car?

I just want to open the front bonnet

actually what you mentioned is true.. I have no intention to build the details under the hood.. but I do have some small plan which is why I need to open it up..
I want to put something under it

Anyway.. I plan to open up the door and probably not going to make it moveable..
Same thing with the hood, if my plan fails.. just seal it back lor.. not really that hard..

Wow, clean cut. May i know how u cut that? Using saw? I used scriber and new design knife blade to cut the door. And hoh, the "small plan" and " something" sounds lethal and seems very venomous leh... Scary...

Eric..

the small plan and something is actually I want to put LED for the front light but I worry opening and closing the car body would scratch paint, so I make the hood to place the battery and switch, which planned to be detachable.. so it will be able to displayed without working LED (but at the expense of having to scratchbuild the internals, like the interior, underhood details, hinge, bla bla bla..

As for the clean cut.. dun be fool by pictures..
I already lay 0.15mm pla-plate on the side of the car hood opening (you should see a very fine gray lining on first picture, slightly thinner than the panel line of the front bumper)
Both that part and the bonnet cover has been sanded smooth before I snap the pic.
I used a panel line scriber (looks like a pen-shape metal rod), the back of x-acto blade, Trumpeter etching saw (the one with orange plastic holder). No specific order, just like doing panel line re-scribing.. deepening it micrometer by micrometer.. till at one point when you see the light line underside, then using the Trumpeter saw to saw it thru.
However, the gap was never consistent at turning point/curvy area due that I have to make many passes, curvy area will not get 100%.
Straighter area is OK.
You know when you re-scribe.. your blade/saw/scriber has to be exactly at 90% up.. otherwise you get inconsistent panel line width.. same concept here..
Hope that explain well

Lighted one, bravo.

thanks klay for the explanation. very clear.

I didn't even realized I've stop updating for close to 2 months
Also, funny thing is I can't seem to find this thread under HVBGB subforum..

Still working on the stradale bumper.. almost done


Reason for the slow progress was becoz I was working on something seemingly unimportant for the groupbuild..


and this


KahHoe.. sorry to inform that there were some complication in preparing mould for your HD rim and I'd to sacrifice the original nuts in the wheel, the silicon keep get stuck in between the tight gap between the nut and the hole. I have no choice but to remove the original nut completely. But I will cast those extra nuts for sure..
I've re-casted a few and passed to entau for clean up before I make a final mould again..



Lastly..
I try to reproduced those small little thing on the bumper.. dunno what to call those..


as I couldn't rescribe that small stuff.. so I first started by cutting a hole, then use bondite (epoxy bondite) to fill the hole, and remove it after hardening.

wow..the hydraulics hinge on the front hood seems cool! nice one bro!
and also all the supporting structures of the luggage room, pretty impressive!

no worries bro, just do whatever needed 'coz the most important thing is to have a nice final mold ya..
HD wheels seems to need lots of cleaning if you see closely..

oh ya, do u have any problem fitting the front light lens into the body? i've actually finished my Modena Spider but the lens seem to be sitting too low from the body..

Bro.. 360 spider's front lens actually differs from 360 modena..
if you compare the front lens housing with yours.. mine (the clear lens) is actually resting ontop of the body.. your 360 spider clear lens come with a resting pin.. which is tuck beneath the body.. which somehow making levelling not easy.. especially when your paint gets thicker.. the lens will not level with the painted body..

No need to worry.. your 360 spider still a magnificent finish.. I know.. it will be even better if finish with my racing seat

And thanks for the comments

haha..thanks bro..i feel lazy to re-adjust the lens anymore..as for the seats, it's okay..let it be stock seat for now..i can always drop by "Klay's Performance Shop" anytime for the racing seats right? hehehe..

oh ya i saw a diecast 1/24 Gallardo LP560-4 selling at RM69.90 in DaiSheng Petaling Street today..since none of this kit coming out at the moment, wonder if it is worth to buy and redo the paint job etc..hehe..