Wta Painting On 1/24 Enzo

Hi All,

I am new here. I would like to ask in order to get painting for Tamiya 1/24 Enzo Ferrari at a minimum cost.

I am looking at Anchor Spray Can (Cost RM6 per can). Or If there is anywhere cheaper please let me know.

I was thinking 2 spray can.
1 for body :Red #33
1 for Body coat (Gloss /Shinny effect): Clear#1
1 for engine: (using marker pen that i have)

Any comments on above?
On very tight budget and will be using it one time only.
Skipping primer as well.

Thanks

Hi hebeonline,

First of all, welcome to the forum.

To build an "ok" model, you can build it at minimal cost but to turn it into an excellent model, you have to invest a bit more since you are building a car.

The Anchor red is considered one of the best "affordable" industrial paint. Since you are on a tight budget, I would suggest that you skip the clear coat and buy silver paint for the engine as you can actually polish the red to make it shine rather than using the clear coat. As for detail painting, you can use those gold and black markers that is available at the stationary shops.

As for the red and amber paint for the turn indicator and brake, you can actually use magic markers as they are translucent and can be an alternative for the clear red and orange paint.

Bear in mind that this is just an alternative. There might be others that can give better suggestions to you.

Master Druid just answer all...

I add a bit, be careful when u spray with industrial spray can, the solvent in the paint is quite strong and might "eat" in to the plastic body that will ended up coarse, spray a few light coats before the final wet one, then proceed to the polishing of the body.

BTY, if you can complete it by 22nd Sept, U can also join Our group build here

http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...hp?showforum=83

Good luck

Hebeonlne, best that you introduce yourself here before you get flamed.

Thanks for all the replied.
Just a few question to clarify

Using chart ref http://www.dpiaerosol.com/images/ColorCard1.jpg


Q1.Is the Red#33 similar to Italian Red for Ferrari ENzo?
Q2.WHat color code Silver will be suitable for engine?
Q3. I am thinking to top up my budget a bit to get a black spray can due to 3 color required from the Model Kit. Black #30
Q4. If i am skipping the clear coat, what kind of material should i use for polishing to make the red color shinny?
Q5. Is it best to spray before you cut parts or cut the parts after spray?

Since this is my 1st make. Hopefully i can make it good

Welcome to the house, hebeonline..its still better to invest more if u wanna achieve perfect finish in building cars..but since u are having tight budget, industrial paint is the alternative..just like what bro vince said, industrial paint is quite strong so it may melt the plastic, so i suggest u to spend some on primer, as it acts as a protective layer to the surface to be painted. Then, when u wanna spray, spray it from far, around 30cm from the object..this is because the nozzle of industrial spray can will release more paint and the paint will tend to become too thick if u spray too close..

Yup, its better to cut the parts from the tree, then sand off the cut mark till it is smooth using sandpaper, prime it and paint it..

Do post up the progress pictures over here, as the masters here are all willing to guide u through the building progress..hope that the tips here can be helpful to u..enjoy and happy modelling!

This is my answer on your queries:

Q1.Is the Red#33 similar to Italian Red for Ferrari ENzo?
If exact Ferrari red of the Enzo that you are looking for then, no, it is not similar. The #33 red is not as bright as the ones used on the actual Enzo. Since you are on a tight budget, then the #33 can still be used.

Q2.WHat color code Silver will be suitable for engine?
Since you are on a tight budget, then any silver paint will do.

Q3. I am thinking to top up my budget a bit to get a black spray can due to 3 color required from the Model Kit. Black #30
I would recommend you to get #29 because it will be used a lot more than the #30. The #30 is gloss while most areas on the Enzo requires flat/matt black.

Q4. If i am skipping the clear coat, what kind of material should i use for polishing to make the red color shinny?
Again, since budget is your concern, you can use automotive rubbing compound (soft99 brand is cheap and can be used) to remove the paint unevenness and any automotive polish to give the final shine.

Q5. Is it best to spray before you cut parts or cut the parts after spray?
I would cut the parts, put it on a bamboo skewer attached using blue tack. I would also glue some parts together and clean it up before painting (eg; the engine block)

as for the painting process the others had mention in here that the industrial automotive paint can be corrosive to the plastic, this is true and you don't want to apply thick layer of paint on the model as the paint will eat the plastic. Paint thin layer at a time and at a distance and the advisable distance is around 15cm to 20cm because the further the can from the model, the paint will start to dry up even before sticking to the body leaving a grainy effect onto the body (you don't want this effect unless you are painting the engine block).

Thanks guys for all the replies.

Q1. Does Anchor #5 Primer Surfacer Grey do the job?
http://www.dpiaerosol.com/images/ColorCard1.jpg


Q2. Do we apply primer on the car body only or even the interior such as the engine and the black colour pieces?
Does the paint eat the plastic if we don't apply the primer 1st ? Regardless of the engine part or other pieces?

Q3. Since i am not putting any clear coat after my paint, does the polish affect the paint directly?
Any alternative to achieve the shinny effect?

Hello Hebeonline, before i answer some of your question, i would like to know u said "On very tight budget and will be using it one time only."

does it mean you intended to just built one 1/24 enzo and not going to built other car kit?


back to your questions

Q1. I had never use industrial type primer surfacer, so i can't comment on this, but one thing for sure, modeling primer like Tamiya or Mr Hobby/Gunze is a very fine primer, because they are meant for modeling, while the industrial type is not. is like trying to paint your fingernail using a huge brush instead of a fine brush, so yes, it still do the job but not as fine. hope u get the idea.

Q2. Modeling primer does not eat the plastic, but some industrial type primer & paint does. the reason for priming is to get even color, better paint grip & detecting surface flaws.

Q3. If you spray any gloss paint, polishing does improve the shineness, but from my experience, its always better to have clear gloss coat.

Q1. Does Anchor #5 Primer Surfacer Grey do the job?
http://www.dpiaerosol.com/images/ColorCard1.jpg
Since both were basically from the same chemical, it makes no difference. Both will somehow eats the plastic. I'm assuming that the surfacer that was suggested is the ones that is produced by the modelling company such as Tamiya or Gunze.

Q2. Do we apply primer on the car body only or even the interior such as the engine and the black colour pieces?
Does the paint eat the plastic if we don't apply the primer 1st ? Regardless of the engine part or other pieces?
It depends on you. The surfacer acts as an "adhesive" for the paint where it will "hold" the paint onto the body thus preventing it from chipping easily. Most of the time I apply primer on all the parts to check for flaws, sink molds and other errors on the part but sometimes when I'm lazy, I just skip surfacer and just apply paint on the parts. I always apply surfacer onto the body though.

Q3. Since i am not putting any clear coat after my paint, does the polish affect the paint directly?
Any alternative to achieve the shinny effect?
Yes, it do affect the paints directly where if it is applied directly, it will give your model a very high gloss finish. You need to be very careful not to over-rub it though especially during the compounding process because the rubbing compound actually acts as a very micro grit sandpaper where it removes minimal layer of paint when you apply it.

Very informative

I need to re-calculate my budget

So far

1x anchor Black (RM6)
1 x anchor Silver (RM6)
If i get Tamiya TS-8 Spray can, can i avoid Primer?
I am thinking since Tamiya Spray can is modelling paint it shall not "eat" the plastic or make un even surface on the body.

Wherelese the rest of the parts i can lower the expectation

if you avoid primer, there is a high chance of the paint came off if u intended to do masking. also the body will look a bit plastic..like those radio control toy car.

if you prime, the red will be more solid looking, like a good diecast model.

and lastly, it is very hard to achieve a quality paint job using industrial can spray, especially for first timer. if you are keen into making good models, go search more tips on building car models or people's wip. good luck!

Hi Jimmy, welcome to this forum..

Just curious.. did you just bought the enzo or rather.. how much have you spent for it?

If this is your first car kit.. (I assumed you have painted kits before since you mentioned you build gunpla before).. I would say experience with spray can may varies.. especially industrial one tends to give you unexpected and often undesirable results.

Just a quick one.
When was the last time you used a spray can and did you achieve a satisfactory results?


Let me share my experience with industrial spray can..
Somewhere 12-14 years ago.. I had a Tamiya RX-7.
Already spent some amount there and after budgeting my cost surverying tamiya paint (spray can for the body and other colors like aluminium, silver, semi-gloss black and clear red/yellow).. I thought it would be too costly to spent on a RM30 tamiya spray can.. it's so small.. probably not going to last for 2 car kits.
So I practised spraying with some industrial spray can on some scrap and then I bravely painted my RX-7.
The paint job was satisfactorily shiny but not perfect like show room car shine.
Then after months.. don't know why the paint cracked.
The kit went to scrap, it's not too costly anyway but I learned the lesson.
Don't expect the industrial paint to perform like a RM30 Tamiya paint.
And all the cars you see here.. especially very shiny one.. need to be polished.
Again.. there's another cost if you aware the price for Tamiya polishing compound and wax, not to mentioned other accessories like microfibre.

So.. are you risking your hundred over buck Enzo?
Think again..

The cheapest acceptable method would be either using Gunze or Tamiya spray can for the body work. The rest, you may consider handpaint (results won't be superb but should be acceptable).
If I were you, I wouldn't want to take my first painting experience using one of the most beautifully done kit done by Tamiya.
Why the haste and not start likely with some cheaper car kit to test power first and see if you like the results and then only consider moving on to the Enzo?

Hi Jimmy, welcome to this forum..

Just curious.. did you just bought the enzo or rather.. how much have you spent for it?

If this is your first car kit.. (I assumed you have painted kits before since you mentioned you build gunpla before).. I would say experience with spray can may varies.. especially industrial one tends to give you unexpected and often undesirable results.

Just a quick one.
When was the last time you used a spray can and did you achieve a satisfactory results?


Let me share my experience with industrial spray can..
Somewhere 12-14 years ago.. I had a Tamiya RX-7.
Already spent some amount there and after budgeting my cost surverying tamiya paint (spray can for the body and other colors like aluminium, silver, semi-gloss black and clear red/yellow).. I thought it would be too costly to spent on a RM30 tamiya spray can.. it's so small.. probably not going to last for 2 car kits.
So I practised spraying with some industrial spray can on some scrap and then I bravely painted my RX-7.
The paint job was satisfactorily shiny but not perfect like show room car shine.
Then after months.. don't know why the paint cracked.
The kit went to scrap, it's not too costly anyway but I learned the lesson.
Don't expect the industrial paint to perform like a RM30 Tamiya paint.
And all the cars you see here.. especially very shiny one.. need to be polished.
Again.. there's another cost if you aware the price for Tamiya polishing compound and wax, not to mentioned other accessories like microfibre.

So.. are you risking your hundred over buck Enzo?
Think again..

The cheapest acceptable method would be either using Gunze or Tamiya spray can for the body work. The rest, you may consider handpaint (results won't be superb but should be acceptable).
If I were you, I wouldn't want to take my first painting experience using one of the most beautifully done kit done by Tamiya.
Why the haste and not start likely with some cheaper car kit to test power first and see if you like the results and then only consider moving on to the Enzo?

agree with what bro klay said..
well this somehow reminds me of my first kit..was totally new and know nothing when i started my first kit, a fujimi evo8 that ended up in dustbin..

yea, no rush..you can try to build other simple car kits if this is ur first kit..sorry to say that but it's kind of a waste if u start building your first car kit that is so nicely molded and pricey..

u can actually try my way in saving money when u build car kits, i actually use Mr.Hobby surfacer for priming, then tamiya spray for body..the rest of the parts such as interior, engine, chassis etc i use surfacer to prime and industrial paint for the color..

i tried using industrial primer but to be honest i think industrial primer is still corrosive to plastic kit, and it does not really help to adhere the main color so well..now the problem here is the color tend to peel off with the masking tape when i do masking..but with Mr.Hobby surfacer, it protects the plastic and provide better adhesion, so the plastic will not be attacked by the industrial paint when i spray on it. Also, when i do masking the paint will not peel off too..

yea, i was once thinking of minimizing the cost in spray can but in long run, investing in better spray is actually more worthy as the outcome is a lot better than industrial paint..you will find out that the investment u did is worthwhile when u have a smooth, shiny paintjob model done..

as for the clear coat, i think it is a must if you wanna achieve glossy finish. clear coat is a protective coat to protect ur main color while bringing you the gloss..if u use industrial clear coat, it is corrosive too..and another thing u have to worry when u use industrial clear is that the clear may turn yellowish after years..Mr.Hobby SuperClear is the best I've tried so far..

hope this helps and happy modeling!

Can the clear coat achieved with below?

1) Japan TS80 Flat Clear
2)Mr Hobby Top Coat Flat Matt
3)Mr Hobby Super Clear UV Flat


And primer with
Mr Hobby Resin Primer Surfacer